Two Sides of Paris
The Seine River in Paris, during my 2018 visit
The Seine, often referred to as Paris’s most beautiful avenue, is an important commercial waterway for northern France. In Paris the river separates the city into two, the Left Bank and Right Bank.
The difference between the two used to be very distinct, and has blurred in recent years. But I do think there are certain reasons to make your home base on one side versus the other when visiting Paris.
Map of Paris’s arrondissements with the Seine separating the Left and Right Banks
Let’s consider a few factors…
SIZE
As you see in the map, the Left Bank is considerably smaller than the Right. And actually, most tourists won’t venture further south than Montparnasse. So, that just leaves three arrondissements on the Left: 5th, 6th and 7th. On the Right, tourists will likely want to visit 1-4, 8-11, plus 18. So, there is a much larger area to cover on the Right.
VIBE
Historically, the Left would be considered the scholarly, thoughtful area, full of philosophers and writers and artists. Here, in the Latin Quarter, you’ll find the Sorbonne Université (my old school!), and a lot of students, book stores and cafés.
And historically the Right Bank has been the commercial and business side of Paris. For example, you have Les Halles, the shopping district. And you have the ornate Galleries Lafayette and Printemps department stores.
ATTRACTIONS & SITES
On the Left Bank, aside from the Sorbonne, you’ll find the beautiful Luxembourg Gardens, galleries and antique shops in Saint Germain, and the Eiffel Tower and Champ de Mars park in the 7th. Also on the Left stands my absolute favorite museum in Paris, the Musée d’Orsay.
The Right Bank features the Louvre and the Tuilleries Gardens, the Garnier Opera House (one of my favorite buildings), the Opera Bastille, the Centre Pompidou, and Montmartre - home to my favorite church, the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. Plus you’ll find the Marais, formerly the Jewish quarter, now filled with fashionable boutiques and bars.
WHERE TO STAY?
Le Bristol Paris, member of Leading Hotels of the World
RIGHT BANK
For most people who are visiting Paris for the first time, many of the sites they want to visit are on the Right Bank. And most people will feel more comfortable there because the streets seem to be less confusing. You have some major boulevards like the Champs-Elysées and the Boulevard des Capucines which help with navigation. The famous luxury hotels like the George V, Plaza Athénée, Le Bristol, Hotel de Crillon, the Ritz and La Réserve are all situated just off the Champs-Elysées. They are grand and completely worth the equally grand price tags if you love this slightly (sometimes more than slightly) over-the-top opulence.
LEFT BANK
I tend to suggest the Left Bank to people who know Paris a little - they’ve visited a couple times already - or for those who enjoy feeling more like a resident as opposed to a tourist.
There are some fabulous 5-star properties on the Left Bank that are not as widely known and have more under-stated styles. But the level of service and attention to detail is equal to those on the Right.
Here are three fabulous Left Bank hotels you may not know, but should consider for your next visit…
Esprit Saint Germain, my personal favorite, with quite large rooms for Paris. It does not have a restaurant or bar, but has two lounges where they serve daily breakfast and offer two honor bars in the afternoons and evenings. I love the hidden street this hotel is on, just a block from the Luxembourg Gardens and a short walk to the Seine.
Hotel Montalembert is popular with people who want a very intimate hotel. It does have a bar and restaurant, with a nice terrace in good weather. The design is contemporary and streamlined, and the location is wonderful - just over the bridge from the Tuilleries Gardens and the Louvre Museum.
And one other I’d like to point out happens to be a sister property of Hotel Montalembert. It’s the Hotel Bel Ami, located just steps from well-known brasseries like Les Deux Magots and Brasserie Lipp, and a few minutes’ walk to the Seine. The Bel Ami has a restaurant and bar, plus fitness center, sauna and spa. The overall style is modern, but well-designed, so it still feels comfortable, not cold or stark.
