Travel in the Time of Covid
I don’t know exactly how the idea came to me. I was simultaneously struck by the need to get away - out, just OUT! - and the need to be by the ocean. I’m not even a beach person; I’m much more of a city person. But, the idea of crowded streets, public transportation, and the possibility of people brushing against me even for a second was too much to bear. So… beach.
This is a real photo I took our first day - no filters or anything. Just a beautiful sunset over possibly the most spectacular beaches I’ve ever been to, Playa Carrizalillo in Puerto Escondido.
STEP # 1: WHERE ARE WE GOING?
As a travel agent I’m pretty aware of many destinations’ entry requirements. Most are requiring Covid testing prior to arrival. Some require testing after arrival as well. Some require international health insurance. Some are very strict such as St. Lucia where you are not allowed to leave your resort once you arrive (except for a few pre-approved excursions by pre-approved tour companies).
But I knew that flying into Mexico was simple. The country had already been open a long time, and many tourists had gone and returned easily. Plus there are beautiful beaches, the friendliest of people, amazing food and culture, and it’s one of my favorite countries in the world.
Logistically speaking, Mexico is easy as well because I knew my cell phone would automatically work there with out any problems or additional fees (one fabulous benefit of T-Mobile), and we wouldn’t need any electrical converters or adapters.
I actually started my search looking at California. But I’d already been dealing with the smoke and ash from Colorado’s fires for months, and I didn’t want to go to another area with fires. Plus spending a month on a California beach would have just been too expensive. Mexico was the clear winner!
Then, of course we had to find the exact place within Mexico and I took into account the following:
No huge resorts. I wanted more of a Mexican town, not a resort area so I could feel like I was “living” in Mexico as opposed to being on vacation.
A big enough town to have things to do, restaurants, markets… and most importantly know that we’d have good Wifi and cell service because we would be still be working. But a small enough town where you can have space from other people
A town where we could afford to stay for a full month and be comfortable (air conditioning, smart tv, enough space for both of us to live and work etc.). And where we could be just a couple blocks from both the town and the beach.
My initial thought was Ixtapa / Zihuatanejo, where I’ve been wanting to go for years. But to me it seemed too big and too crowded for this trip during the pandemic. So, I opted for another area I’ve been wanting to go, about 4 hours south on the Pacific… Puerto Escondido in the state of Oaxaca.
(I’ll certainly write a separate post about this charming town.)
Mural at the incredible restaurant, AlmOraduz in Puerto Escondido
STEP # 2: WHERE ARE WE STAYING?
You know I’m always a fan of staying in a hotel / resort as opposed to booking a home rental (hotels employ many more people and are vital to my industry). However, when traveling for a full month, a hotel was simply not financially plausible. So I searched on airbnb.
Essential requirements for me:
First and foremost, Wifi was a must. There are co-working spaces here that are very affordable (like $100/month) so that would be an option. But we really wanted to work from our residence.
We wanted a lot of space. You’d be surprised how small a small space can feel after a week or so, so for a full month we wanted two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen and living room, plus some type of balcony or terrace.
Location was key for us because one big reason for this getaway was to be at the beach. Plus we didn’t want to rent a car or have to use taxis a lot, so being near the beach and town were important. And being away from the party scene in a quieter area was also crucial.
And of course reviews on airbnb are huge. So, I made sure to find a listing with good reviews, and lots of them.
I’d say we really hit the jackpot. We got all of the above plus twice weekly housekeeping, 2 smart TVs, and a wonderfully responsive host in a secure building of just 6 apartments. (I’d be happy to share the listing with you should you want to visit!)
This is the entrance at night when they turn on some funky color-changing lights.
STEP # 3: HOW DO WE GET THERE?
Once I saw that there were indeed affordable lodging options in Puerto Escondido I looked into flights. Typically the best option from Denver would be to fly to Mexico City, spend the night, and then fly to Puerto Escondido the next day. You may have seen a post I wrote in February about Mexico City - it’s one of my favorite cities in the world. But it’s extremely crowded and I didn’t feel comfortably spending the night there. So instead, we flew to Houston where we spent the night in an airport hotel. Then we took an early flight to Mexico City, and after a 3-hour layover we flew to Puerto Escondido.
One important thing: you have to do whatever is most comfortable for you. For me, spending a night in Houston felt “safer” in terms of cleanliness and social distancing etc. than spending a night in Mexico City.
PLANES
Southwest: Fortunately Matt has A-list status with Southwest so we had priority boarding for our flight to Houston and they were keeping middle seats open. That felt totally fine.
United: I knew United was not keeping middle seats open. So I opted to pay extra for bulkhead seats (seats right behind first class) so no one would be directly in front of us and we’d have more legroom. This worked out GREAT because United now boards from back to front. Since our seats were all the way in the front we boarded last and didn’t have to walk down the aisle past people or stand in line. And leaving the plane, of course we exited first since we were in the front (they call specific rows to exit so it’s not a free-for-all). Matt likes a window seat and I prefer aisle, which meant we had someone seated between us which was fine. United alerted us the day prior that the flight was quite full and we could switch if we wanted, but we knew we had to connect to our next flight and it wasn’t an option for us.
Aeormar: I’m not sure you will ever take an Aeromar flight - it’s a pretty small airline. But this is United’s partner for flying to Puerto Escondido. The plane was pretty small and only about half full. Each row had one person on each side and a couple rows were empty. (They asked passengers not to change seats because it would alter the weight distribution of the plane.)
FOOD
All airports - Denver, Houston and Mexico City - had restaurants, bars and stores open. I was a little taken aback by bar seats placed very close to one another at Houston (and people sitting in them). Again, you do what you’re comfortable with.
All the planes offered a beverage and a snack. And you’re allowed to remove your mask to eat and drink, but otherwise you must keep your mask on at all times.
OVERALL
I’ll admit I was a little nervous about the airplane and airport experiences, but now that I’ve gone through it, I feel pretty comfortable with it. I have several masks with me at all times, I wash my hands often, and I have hand sanitizer with me if needed. I know other people are using gloves and wiping down their tables and chairs with their own wipes, but I chose not to. The extent you go to is definitely your own personal decision to make, so do what you think is best!
In terms of the plane rides, I found that almost no one left their seat the whole time. I never saw a line for the restroom on the planes. People pretty much kept to themselves with little talking or movement. It seemed as though most people accepted and drank a beverage which meant masks were off during that time.
ENTRY INTO MEXICO
Prior to leaving the US you can complete a health questionnaire online which gives you a QR code to print out and hand to the immigration official (or you can complete the form on the plane).
NOTE: Once in Mexico you will encounter temperature checks throughout the airport every step of the way. Every doorway, every gate…. everywhere you go(!), staff will check your temperature.
STEP # 4: WHAT SHOULD I BRING (re. Covid)?
Since we would be away from home for a full 4 weeks I felt a little stressed about packing. I confirmed there were several laundromats nearby so I knew I could easily do laundry. But what about health and safety? These are things I don’t typically bring with me that I opted for this time:
Plenty of masks (of course)
Multiple bottles of hand sanitizer: large ones for the condo and a small one to keep in my bag
Various medicines from Pepto and Tums to Musinex and cough drops
Thermometer
Pulsometer: this is the machine you put your finger into and it measures your blood oxygen level and pulse. It was suggested by my friends and it’s such a smart idea. If you do get sick, you can measure your oxygen and know if you need to get to a hospital or not. I bought this for about $20 on Amazon.
For Americans (not sure about Canadians): probably most important of all… be sure to buy travel insurance if you’re traveling outside the US. Your health insurance from the US will NOT cover you when traveling abroad! Right now there ARE insurance companies that will cover you if you contract Covid while traveling. My plan was just $176 for the two of us for the whole month and includes thousands of dollars for medical, emergency evacuation, trip interruption and more. Plans are basically based on the cost of your trip and your age. I can research the best plan for you.
STEP # 5: WHAT SHOULD I EXPECT (re. Covid)?
MASKS
Before we left I was reading articles about Mexico’s Covid status every day, and what they were doing. So I knew masks were absolutely mandated and strictly enforced. I read about a Belgian tourist in Puerto Escondido who sat down on a bench to smoke a cigarette outside. He was spotted, arrested on site, and immediately taken to jail for not wearing his mask. When interviewed he said they were taking everyone they saw without masks - men, women, old, young.
That was about a week before we arrived, and needless to say I almost NEVER see anyone without a mask on here. People jogging or bike riding, driving in their car, walking on the beach… And sometimes I see 20-somethings sitting outside at a cafe having coffee with a mask hanging off one ear, like an odd fashion statement.
HAND WASHING and DISTANCING
Every restaurant and shop has a hand washing station outside. You wash your hands there before entering (a big jug of water with a spigot and bottle of soap). They also have a pad to wipe your feet on as you enter. All this seems to be government mandated. At some restaurants your waiter will offer hand sanitizer once you’re seated at your table.
The distance mandate here is only 1.5 meters (5’). But it doesn’t really feel that much different from what we’ve been experiencing in the US. Most people have been very good about keeping their distance.
OVERALL
I recently read an article by a woman who traveled to Mexico for 6 weeks, and said she felt much safer in terms of Covid in Mexico than in the US. And I’d have to agree with her. It’s so nice not to have to wonder whether people will be wearing masks or if people have washed their hands recently.
“Covid Patrol” vehicles (this is a real thing) drive up and down the main strip making sure people are abiding by the rules. It’s a way to keep everything running. As long as everyone follows the rules shops stay open, and people - and the economy - stay healthy.
A couple more shots of my neighborhood….
Leading to my building… you’ll notice lots of old VW Beatles!
View from my balcony, some interesting architecture
Two blocks from my condo, the strip of restaurants and shops (and laundry!)